If you’re looking for a summer destination with natural beauty, outdoor activities, turquoise lakes, and abundant wildlife, the Canadian Rockies is a destination you should strongly consider. If you have kids who can do easy to moderate hikes and enjoy being outdoors, this place is definitely for them. There will be a lot of driving involved, especially if you incorporate Jasper into the trip, but it is definitely worth it.
My wife and I last visited Banff, Jasper, and the Canadian Rockies 10 years before this trip. We loved every moment of our time there and have longed to return for several years. With our youngest son able to walk and our older two showing a genuine interest in outdoor activities, we booked this trip for early July when the weather would be pleasant.
The easiest way to get to the Canadian Rockies is to fly to Calgary, Alberta. Banff National Park is about a 90-minute drive from Calgary, while Jasper National Park is an additional two hours north. You can also fly into Edmonton to access both parks, but your drive will be about four hours. I highly recommend visiting Jasper National Park if you are already visiting Banff. It’s a bit less trafficked, and wildlife was easier to spot from our experience. The drive between the two parks is one of the most beautiful drives in the world, with snow-capped mountains, glaciers, and turquoise lakes as points of interest along the drive.
For the 2025 season, reservations for the Lake Louise and Moraine Lake Shuttle are available starting April 16th. The cost is $8 per adult, $4 for senior citizens (65+), and free for kids 17 and under. Additional tickets will be released on a rolling basis two days before departure day. For example, if you plan to visit on June 16th, set your alarm for 7:55am Mountain Time on June 14th so you can purchase those tickets as soon as they go live. Create a Parks Canada account well before you buy your tickets. Here is a link to the website where you can purchase tickets and find up-to-date information on road closures: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/parkbus/louise. I would bookmark this page.
Day One
From Calgary to Chicago, we booked saver award flights on American Airlines that routed us through Dallas (DFW) for 17.5k points per person. The non-stop flight from Chicago had award availability, costing 50k points per person, because it was peak season. Although this itinerary made for a long travel day, it allowed us to visit the fantastic and relatively new Capital One Lounge at DFW, and I’ll have a separate post on that. We arrived at Calgary Airport in the evening and picked up our car rental from Hertz with minimal wait time. Hertz is conveniently located across the street from baggage claim, so we did not have to worry about taking a shuttle to an off-site location with three kids.
We drove to downtown Calgary and checked into the Hyatt Regency. The cash price for the hotel would have been $630 for the night. However, by utilizing Chase Ultimate Rewards points and transferring them into Hyatt, we booked the night for only 9k points, giving us a redemption rate of seven cents per point. I would categorize this booking as a homerun redemption. Prices for this week were elevated due to the annual Calgary Stampede rodeo and festival, which draws over one million visitors to Calgary over ten days. The festive atmosphere at the hotel and the downtown area made our stay even better.
Day Two
After having brunch at Blue Vinny (excellent food) and walking around downtown Calgary, we drove two hours west to Banff National Park and the Lake Louise Ski Resort. At the entrance to Banff National Park, we purchased Parks Canada day passes for the four days we were going to be in the Canadian Rockies. This costs $22 per group and allows access to all the national parks in the Canadian Rockies. If you will be there for seven days or longer, I recommend getting the Parks Canada Discovery pass, which costs $151. This pass gives you access to all of the Canadian National Parks from coast to coast for 12 months from the date of purchase. You also get access to all of the Canadian National Historic Sites. The group pass is good for seven people, which is worth the cost.
We had a reserved time slot to take the Parks Canada shuttle to Moraine Lake in the late afternoon. I recommend arriving at the check-in booth at least 15 minutes before your scheduled time. Remember to purchase your tickets well in advance. The chances of ticket availability for walk-up customers are minimal during peak season.
On this day, the skies were clear, the weather was perfect, and we did the Moraine Lake Rockpile Trail with the boys. The reward at the end of the trail was one of the most stunning views of natural beauty in the world. Moraine Lake is a must-see attraction if you’re visiting Banff and can’t leave without experiencing it. I recommend spending at least 90 minutes here and doing the Moraine Lake Shoreline Trail.
Remember to bring plenty of water, granola bars, a fully charged phone, and bear spray since grizzlies are known to wander the area. You can stay at Moraine Lake as long as you want, but if you miss the last shuttle, you are responsible for finding your way back. There is almost no cell service, and the cost of getting a taxi could quickly run in the hundreds. You also don’t want to be in a situation where you are walking in pitch dark with apex predators lurking nearby. I recommend getting out on the second-to-last shuttle at the latest just to be safe.
When we first visited Banff in 2014, visitors parked on the side of the road or in one of the few parking spots if they got there early enough and made the short walk to Moraine Lake. In the decade since, the popularity of the Canadian Rockies has exploded, attracting visitors from all over the world. Rather than have mass chaos with hundreds competing for a few parking spots, Parks Canada established an online booking system that allows you to reserve a time slot to visit Moraine Lake and Lake Louise. The park & ride is at Lake Louise Ski Resort, and visitors hop onto a shuttle to either Moraine Lake or Lake Louise. If you stay at the Fairmont Lake Louise, you can park at the hotel for $40 per night. If you have reservations at the restaurant inside the Fairmont for afternoon tea or dinner, you can park at the Fairmont parking lot for two hours. As of 2024, you could not park at the Fairmont without being an overnight guest or having reservations at the restaurant. I would recommend calling in advance if there are any changes to this policy for 2025.
Once our time at Moraine Lake concluded, we took the shuttle back to Lake Louise Ski Resort. The road to the Lake Louise Ski Resort is also known to have wildlife, so have your cameras ready. We headed 40 minutes south to Canmore to Blackstone Mountain Lodge, a beautiful property with nice amenities and spacious suites. This was our base camp for our stay in the Canadian Rockies.
Day Three
Following a quick stop at Tim Horton’s (their double-double is still my favorite coffee), we drove back to Lake Louise Ski Resort and took the shuttle to Lake Louise. Lake Louise is one of the main attractions that lures people to travel to Banff, so it goes without saying that it should be on your list of must-see places when in Banff. Lake Louise has a hotel, Fairmont Lake Louise, adjacent to the lake. My wife and I had the privilege of staying here in 2014 when it wasn’t costly and the popularity of Banff hadn’t exploded. The lake views from our hotel room were surreal, and the convenience of not worrying about parking or booking a shuttle to see Lake Louise was a big plus. The demand for this hotel during the summer months is very high, and prices go for over $1,000 per night. If you can find a solid deal to stay at the Fairmont, I highly recommend it. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience.
Our elder two kids (ages 5 and 4 at the time) had never kayaked before, so we rented a kayak and allowed them to get their first experience. This activity is perfect for kids ages 4+, and I highly recommend kayaking on Lake Louise. It costs $165 for one hour, which is definitely on the higher end of pricing for kayak rentals. However, there aren’t many more picturesque settings to kayak than Lake Louise. Between hiking and kayaking, we spent several hours at Lake Louise, and the perfect weather made it easy for us to maximize our time here.
If you’re looking for trails, the Lake Louise Lakeshore trail is a relatively easy out-and-back trail that kids can do. The trail has steep grades, so I would not call it wheelchair or stroller-friendly. Another popular trail at Lake Louise is the Lake Agnes Tea House Trail. This 2.2-mile (3.5 km) trail takes you to the Lake Agnes Tea House, a small café with various teas and other baked goods that has been in business since 1905. This trail is moderately challenging with a lot of uphill climbing that could be difficult for toddlers, so we did not hike this trail on this trip. Budget at least three hours round-trip for this trail and bring cash since the Lake Agnes Tea House does not accept credit cards or digital payments. As with any trail in the Canadian Rockies, remember to bring bear spray as bears frequent the Lake Louise area year-round.
I recommend riding on the gondola if you use the Lake Louise Ski Resort to park and ride. The gondola operates from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., giving visitors a beautiful panoramic view of Banff, Lake Louise, and the surrounding vistas. Occasionally, you can spot bears from the gondola, and they keep track of bear sightings daily. The Lake Louise Ski Resort also has dining options open until 5pm, which is convenient if you have hungry toddlers arriving after a day from Moraine Lake or Lake Louise.
Day Four
Jasper National Park was on the agenda for our fourth day, with planned stops at several points of interest. We woke up very early and left our hotel by 7am. To make a day trip to Jasper National Park from Canmore or the Lake Louise village area, I strongly recommend hitting the road no later than 7:30am. Our first stop was Peyto Lake, a beautiful turquoise glacial lake right off the Icefields Parkway and about 30 minutes north of Lake Louise. A paved walkway takes you to the viewing platform that offers stunning panoramic views of Peyto Lake and the surrounding vista. There is a steep uphill incline when walking to the viewing platform, so I would not call it stroller or wheelchair friendly. We were able to push up our Zoe stroller, but got a nice leg workout in the process. If you want to challenge yourself, pushing up a lightweight stroller is possible. The total distance to the viewing platform and back is about 0.8 miles. I would make Peyto Lake a must-see attraction, and you should plan on budgeting 30 minutes here. There is a parking lot at Peyto Lake, but it can get packed by 9am, so I strongly recommend getting here early. There are also restrooms available in the Peyto Lake parking lot.
Our next stop along the Ice Fields Parkway was Waterfowl Lake. This is another glacial lake with a greener shade than Peyto Lake, and it’s worth a stop to get a picture. You don’t need more than 10-15 minutes here.
Twenty minutes further north was Athabasca Glacier and the Columbia Icefield. I would pin this as a must-see attraction if you’re in the Canadian Rockies. The boys and I did the uphill hike on the gravel path that took us to the foot of the glacier. The glacier has various markers demonstrating where it used to be at specific historical points and how fast it has receded. Incorporating an educational component to any trip is always the goal, and the kids learned a lot about glaciers and their ability to shape landscapes into what they look like today.
Across the highway from the Columbia Icefield is the Jasper National Park Icefield Information Centre. This visitor center has a Starbucks, restaurants, and gift shops, and you can book tours to walk on the glacier or purchase tickets for the Columbia Icefield Skywalk. This is the perfect place to recharge, use the restroom, and grab a bite before continuing your trip to Jasper (or Banff if you’re headed south).
As we continued driving north, several lookout points offered views worthy of stopping for a picture. The drive between Canmore and Jasper is one of my favorite drives.
We continued driving north through the town of Jasper and stopped at Medicine Lake. This was one of our stopping points ten years prior, and after a few photos, we continued to the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies, Maligne Lake.
Maligne Lake has a parking lot, but in the peak summer months, you will probably have to compete with other visitors if you don’t arrive by 8 a.m. The lake has a toddler-friendly trail called Mary Schaffer Loop, which takes about an hour to complete.
There is no elevation gain, and I suggest going counterclockwise so all the incredible views of the lake and surrounding mountains are at the end of your hike rather than the beginning. This trail has very muddy areas, so proper hiking shoes are recommended. If you visit between May 30th and October 12th in 2025, you can also book the Maligne Lake Cruise and do the round trip to Spirit Island. Kayak rentals are also available during these months.
Following our visit to Maligne Lake, we drove around other areas of Jasper National Park to soak in the views of the surrounding vistas while hoping to get lucky with wildlife encounters. Unfortunately, the bears and moose were not out this trip, but that didn’t detract from our experience at Jasper. After a quick bite to eat in Jasper, it was time to make the four-hour drive back to Canmore. By the time we departed, it was about 8:30 pm, but we still had another two hours before sunset, as the northern latitude in the summer months gives way to more sunshine. By the time we got to Canmore, it was midnight, and the kids were asleep. We planned to sleep extra the following day, following a long day involving over 8 hours of driving. Shoutout to the kids for hanging in there and being so well behaved when I would have likely had a meltdown or two being in the car that long at their age.
Day 5
This was our last full day in the Canadian Rockies, and our first stop was Johnston Canyon, about a 40-minute drive from Canmore and 30 minutes from Banff. A free parking lot is available, but if you don’t want to trouble yourself looking for parking, I recommend arriving before 9 a.m. or waiting until 2 p.m. If you are staying in Banff, you can also take the Roam Number 9 shuttle round-trip for $8 and avoid the hassle of looking for parking.
Johnston Canyon is a fantastic destination for kids. The trail winds through a stunning canyon carved by Johnston Creek, offering a mix of lush pine forests and elevated walkways above the cascading water. These elevated walkways are essential for the experience at Johnston Canyon, allowing access to incredible canyon views that would otherwise be unreachable.
The Lower Falls are tucked away in a narrow section of the canyon, and the hike to the Lower Falls is about ¾ of a mile (1.2 km) from the trailhead. This is the trail that we decided to hike with three kids under the age of six. The best vantage point is inside a small cave on the far side. From this enclosed space, you’ll be incredibly close to the cascading water, close enough to feel its mist, and on days when the outflow volume is more significant, you may get soaked. It’s an unforgettable experience that allows you to experience the sheer power of nature. The wait to enter the cave was about 20 minutes, as it’s large enough to handle only one group of four to five people. It was worth the wait, and our kids loved the experience. The lower falls trail takes about 35 minutes round trip if there is no line at the cave.
The Johnston Upper Falls, significantly taller than the Johnston Canyon Lower Falls, is about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) one way and offers two distinct viewpoints. The lower platform takes you to the base of the falls, though it can get crowded. The upper viewing area, which is more spacious, provides a beautiful view from above, making it worth the climb. My wife and I hiked to the Upper Falls during our trip ten years prior, but we did not want to challenge the kids on a day when the temperature was about eighty degrees with humidity. The Johnston Canyon Upper Falls trail takes about 90 minutes to two hours, depending on the traffic at the viewing platforms and how often you stop for pictures and videos.
I don’t recommend bringing a stroller to Johnston Canyon since the elevated walkways are very narrow. We bought a baby carrier for our 22-month-old, which worked out quite well. If you’re going when the trails are not filled with people, I recommend bringing bear spray since they have been spotted on or near the trails. Johnston Canyon has a station to refill water bottles and bathrooms. If you desire a place to eat, there is also a café and bistro near the trailhead.
Our final stop in the Canadian Rockies was Emerald Lake, about a 50-minute drive into Yoho National Park in the province of British Columbia. My wife and I did not visit Emerald Lake in our prior visit to the Canadian Rockies, and we were glad we didn’t skip out on it this time. As the name suggests, the lake has a beautiful emerald color due to the sunlight refracting off the suspended rock sediments that flow into the lake during the late spring thaw. The lake is easy to access via the Trans-Canada Highway, and from Lake Louise, the drive is only 30 minutes. Parking is available, but your best bet is to get there early or wait until the late afternoon or evening to avoid waiting.
Emerald Lake has a straightforward 3.2-mile loop trail that goes around the lake’s perimeter, and it takes about one hour and fifteen minutes to complete. You can also rent a kayak for an hour for $100 until 4:45 pm during summer. This is considerably better than the amount you would pay at Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. Several picnic benches around the lake were occupied by families having picnics. You can grill at Emerald Lake, but only in designated areas. Once our time at Emerald Lake concluded, it was time to head back to Calgary and say goodbye to the Canadian Rockies. Following dinner at Hakka Garden in Calgary (excellent halal Chinese), we called it an early night since we had to get up early for our flight to Chicago the following morning.
Day Six
After returning our rental car and passing through customs and immigration, we spent time at the Aspire Lounge at Calgary International Airport. This was a nice lounge in Concourse D with a decent selection of food, drinks, and snacks. This concluded our memorable trip to the Canadian Rockies.
Award Redemptions
- Our flight from Chicago (ORD) to Calgary cost 17.5k points per person. We had to connect in Dallas, so it was a long day of travel, but it was still better than dishing out 50k points per person for the non-stop option.
- Our flight from Calgary to Chicago cost us 18k points per person. We booked this redemption through the Chase Ultimate Rewards portal and got the standard 1.5 cents per point redemption since I am a Chase Sapphire Reserve cardholder. The cash price was about $270 per person.
Tips
- Bring a pair of hiking boots and a raincoat, and purchase bear spray upon landing in Canada.
- Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A) and Icefields Parkway (Highway 93-N) are the two roads with frequent bear sightings. The best times of day are right after sunrise or in the evening, an hour before sunset. We only saw one bear this trip, but the longer your stay, the better your chances
- It is not advisable to hike alone in Banff, but if you do, inform someone about the trail you’re hiking and the time you expect to exit. Carry bear spray and attach bells to your bookbag. Most of Banff and Jasper have little to no cell phone reception.
- If traveling with kids, download movies and games on the iPad. YouTube likely won’t be an option for most of your drives there.
- I highly recommend a baby carrier if you are traveling with an infant or toddler younger than three. A stroller is fine for some paved trails.
- Carry plenty of snacks and water. Having unused essentials is always better than not having something when needed.
- Moose and elk may seem docile, but it is best not to approach them if they are nearby. In Jasper, we saw people getting too close to an elk calf, and mom did a mock charge. Always respect wildlife and the wilderness, and don’t litter.
- To be safe, I recommend carrying a portable battery bank if you’re going on a hike that requires you to use an app like AllTrails.
- Have fun, enjoy nature, and thanks for reading.
Miles for places 