In spring 2024, my family and I visited Paris for six days. It was our first trip to Europe in six years, and our boys experienced it for the first time. Having never visited Paris, this was the last major European city on our bucket list. We found spring an ideal time to explore the city—the weather was pleasant, the crowds at major attractions were manageable, and accommodation prices were lower than during peak season. Rain was in the forecast most days, but it was generally a passing shower, which gave way to sunshine and pleasant temperatures. Low 60-degree temperatures made it ideal for walking around the city and exploring the beautiful and diverse neighborhoods that Paris is known for. Since it wasn’t peak season, award redemptions on American Airlines and Air France were plentiful and required relatively few miles compared to the summer. Here is a day-to-day breakdown
Day One
For this trip, we flew American Airlines nonstop from Chicago (ORD) to Paris (CDG). The overnight flight was on a relatively new Boeing 787 Dreamliner, and we landed in Paris a few minutes before noon. Customs and immigration were a breeze, and our driver, Khaled, was waiting beyond baggage claim to take us to our hotel, Staycity Aparthotel in La Defense, the primary business district for Paris, located 3 km west of city limits.  We chose this location for the first 4 days of our trip due to its quiet and safe area, proximity to the Paris Metro, and it’s relatively short distance via Uber to other attractions. Paris is divided into 20 municipal districts called arrondissements, with the first, second, and seventh being among the most popular due to well-known tourist attractions being located within these arrondissements. If you want to stay within Paris city limits, staying near a train station will make your commute throughout the city quite convenient.
After having lunch and settling into our hotel, we took an Uber to see the historic Arc de Triomphe, one of the most famous monuments in Paris. This monument was commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 and honors those who fought for France in the French Revolutionary War and Napoleonic Wars. Tickets can be purchased for rooftop access to the Arc de Triomphe, but the lines are long and move slowly. However, it is a popular spot to view the Eiffel Tower at night. Shortly after, we walked east to Champs-Élysées, a street famous for high-end shopping and classic French brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, etc. Even at 10pm, the street was alive and filled with tourists. After grabbing some ice cream for the kids, we hailed an Uber back to our hotel and called it a night.
Day Two
Our second day was dedicated to the boys, with a trip to Disneyland Paris. For all our trips with the boys, we make it a point to include something that gets them excited and that they can look forward to. We walked from our hotel to the La Defense Metro station and took the red line to the final stop, Marne-la-Vallee. This is the terminus for the red line and stops just a few minutes from the park entrance. The park was packed, and the familiarity of the layout when walking through Main Street USA really made the kids excited and filled with anticipation. Many familiar rides they had been on in Orlando, Tokyo, and Anaheim were also found here. The Sleeping Beauty Castle resembled the one in Disneyland, Anaheim, but was much more prominent. The parades were excellent, the rides were all working, and the food was a nice mix of French and American. Since the kids were exhausted by 8pm and we were taking the train back to our hotel, we did not stick around for the fireworks show. This was a fun experience for our entire family, and if you’re visiting Paris with kids, I’d recommend visiting Disneyland Paris.
Day Three
On our third day, our first stop was at arguably the world’s most famous and renowned museum, The Louvre. The Louvre has about 38,000 pieces of art or objects from prehistory on display at any given time. This is spread over six wings; seeing everything in a single day is virtually impossible. If you’re only spending parts of a day at the Louvre, The Denon Wing is the one you want to focus on. This wing houses the Mona Lisa, The Raft of the Medusa, and the Winged Victory of Samothrace, among others. The Richelieu Wing has notable historical pieces like The Code of Hammurabi and art pieces like The Lion and the Serpent. I loved the Islamic Art collection at The Louvre, located in the Cour Visconti courtyard in the museum’s south wing. The line to purchase tickets can be very long, so I followed the advice of locals and bought the tickets online for a dedicated timeslot.
 Following our time at The Louvre, we took an Uber to the Le Marais, a trendy and historic district with cobblestone streets spread between Paris’s 3rd and 4th arrondissements. Le Marais is known for its boutique shops, cafés, and restaurants, and its historic architecture that dates back several hundred years. The oldest street in this neighborhood, Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, was established in the 13th century and has a mix of contemporary fashion, boulangeries (French bakeries), and souvenir shops. While walking in this area, we visited Pierre Herme for macaroons upon the recommendation of friends and relatives. We all loved their macaroons for their innovative flavors and subtle crunchy texture. Just as many cities in the U.S. have rivalries for their staple foods (Pat’s vs. Geno’s in Philly, Lou Malnati’s vs. Pequods in Chicago, Di Fara vs. Lucali in Brooklyn), it’s Pierre Herme vs. Laduree in Paris. Both are excellent, but Laduree tends to stick with the classic flavors, while Pierre Hermé is willing to get creative and blend multiple flavors.
Day Four
We started our fourth day by having brunch at Bagguett’s Café in the 1st arrondissement. The food was so good that we convinced ourselves we wouldn’t leave Paris without returning. This café is only a five-minute walk from The Louvre, so I recommend having breakfast here before continuing to the Louvre. The weather on this day started in the low 60s with bright sunshine, which is perfect walking weather.
Since it rained when we visited the Louvre the day before, we couldn’t enjoy the picturesque courtyard, so we decided to make the five-minute walk and see it in better weather conditions. Following our stop at the Louvre, we planned to explore as much as possible by walking around.
We walked about 15 minutes to Rue Montorgueil in the Les Halles neighborhood of Paris. Rue Montorgueil is located in the first and second arrondissements and is known for its boulangeries, cafes, and locally sourced cheese, bread, and other bakery items. This street is famous for having the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer. This patisserie dates back to 1730, and its founder, Nicholas Stohrer, used to supply King Louis XV with pastries. Since we had just had breakfast 20 minutes prior, we had no appetite to visit, but based on the long line and mostly favorable reviews, it’s probably worth a visit. The cobblestone and gothic architecture on this street really gives it a charm. We spent about an hour in this area before continuing south. As we continued to walk south towards Notre Dame Cathedral, we stopped at a beautiful park adjacent to a shopping center called Jardin Nelson Mandela. This park had a well-maintained playground, so we let the kids have fun for 20 minutes. On our way out, our eldest son spotted a Lego store, so we walked in and got them Legos for their excellent behavior.
We continued walking south, crossing the Notre Dame Bridge to a natural island on the Seine River called ÃŽle de la Cité, the location of the historic Notre Dame Cathedral. The cathedral’s exterior, destroyed by the fire of 2019, has been mostly rebuilt, and final renovations are still ongoing for the interior. The cathedral is slated to open in December of 2024. Once we concluded our visit to Notre Dame Cathedral, we took the Paris Metro back to our hotel in La Defense to gather our luggage and check in to our Airbnb on Champs Elysees, in the heart of Paris’s fashion and shopping district.
Day 5
Our fifth day in Paris started off overcast with intermittent rain. Our first stop on this day was the Grand Mosque of Paris. We took the Paris Metro from Champs Elysees to the Monge stop in the 5th arrondissement. It is only a five-minute walk from the station, and the beauty and splendor of the mosque are evident right at first glance. For tourists, there is a small fee to get in, while Muslims who are going to pray do not have to pay. The mosque was constructed in 1922 but has been maintained exceptionally well. There is a beautiful garden in the center of the mosque with flowers and lush greenery, a library, a gift shop, and a café and restaurant on the southern end. Moroccan architectural influence is present throughout the mosque, and due to its photogenic nature, the mosque draws many tourists. If you want the best photos of the garden without having people in your pictures, it’s best to go early in the morning. Last, be respectful and mindful that it is an active place of worship and that appropriate attire is required for entrance.
Following our visit to the Grand Mosque, we took the train back to our Airbnb and allowed the kids to rest and nap. Later in the day, we walked 25 minutes from our Airbnb to the Eiffel Tower to get a close-up view of the most iconic structure in Paris. We did not take the elevator to go up since the ticket line was very long. While one can appreciate the majestic tower up close, this isn’t where you will get the best view of the Eiffel Tower. I will get to that later in this post. We spent about an hour here before walking back to Champs Elysees, where we window-browsed the flagship stores that line this street. We called it an early night following dinner to get a head start for our final full day in Paris.
Day Six
On our final day, we got up early in the morning, and our first stop was Baguett’s Café for breakfast. We made sure to return just as we promised. We planned to walk extensively on this day; I think that’s the best way to explore a perfectly walkable city like Paris. The weather on this day started with some rain, but the clouds eventually parted, and the sun started to shine. After brunch, we walked to the Latin Quarter in the 5th and 6th arrondissements. This beautiful area of Paris is known for its cobblestone streets, Medieval architecture, bookshops, cafes, restaurants, and art galleries. It is also home to the oldest university in France, La Sorbonne, founded in 1257. The atmosphere and vibes are very festive, and one can easily spend half a day here.
As we continued to walk north in the 6th arrondissement towards the Seine River, we walked past hundreds of green kiosks from which people were selling second-hand books, posters, records, and other antique or souvenir items. This area is known as Les bouquinistes de Paris (the booksellers of Paris) and has been established along the Seine River for over 500 years. These kiosks are such a historical part of Paris that they have been established as a UNESCO World Heritage site. They are open from dawn until dusk, and I highly recommend visiting this area and getting a look for yourself. They sell everything from decades-old magazines, books, posters of popular figures from the 20th century, and souvenir items such as keychains and magnets.
We continued walking along the Seine River, where we saw the second most famous museum in Paris, Museum d’Orsay. This museum was a former train station converted into a museum in the early 1900s. We didn’t have time to visit this museum, but if you enjoy impressionist and post-impressionist art, D’Orsay would be worth visiting. As we continued walking towards our Airbnb in the 8th arrondissement, we walked past the Luxor Obelisk, an ancient Egyptian obelisk over 3,000 years old. This obelisk was gifted to France in the 1830s.
While walking through the 8th arrondissement, near our Airbnb, we stopped by a halal French restaurant called Le Confidentiel. The food and service were fantastic, and the steak was perfectly cooked. The staff loved interacting with our boys and even gave them dessert on the house. I highly recommend this restaurant if you’re looking for halal French dining.
After an early dinner, we took an Uber to Trocadero in the 16th arrondissement, one of the best places in Paris to view the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Tower has a five-minute light show every hour after sunset until 1 am. Trocadero offers a full view of the tower, and people arrive over an hour before sunset to get unimpeded views. Unfortunately, this area is notorious for thieves and pick-pocketers who work as a team. Keep your wallet and phone in deep pockets, and be cautious if bringing a book bag or any type of bag with a zipper or shallow pockets. Trocadero was our final stop in Paris. It was time to return to our Airbnb and prepare for our early morning departure the following day.
Thoughts on Paris
Overall, my family and I loved Paris. It is a very walkable city with so much charm, history, and something for everyone. The locals were very friendly, and their recommendations enhanced our experience in Paris. We found most of Paris stroller-friendly for our double stroller, except for the Paris Metro subway stations. Several stations did not have elevators, so it was a slight inconvenience when we had to wake up one or two of our boys to fold the stroller and carry it down the stairs. Bring a lightweight stroller that folds easily if you plan to use the subway. We have used the Zoe Twin Stroller by ZoeyBaby for the last four years, and it has been our ultimate travel stroller. There are several points of interest we didn’t visit on this trip (most notable being the Palace of Versailles, Luxembourg Gardens, and Seine River Cruise), but we hope to come back in the future and visit these attractions.
Tips
- We booked our driver from the airport to our hotel through Viator. Khaled is an excellent, honest driver who drives a spacious, clean, comfortable Mercedes van. If you need transportation in and around Paris and would like his contact information, feel free to reach out, and I will happily provide it. If you have read my previous posts and itineraries, you’re probably aware that I like to steer business toward those who provide exceptional service.
- Bring a raincoat when you visit Paris. The weather can go from bright sunshine to rain in minutes.
- If you’re not planning to venture too far outside Paris, you don’t need to rent a car while visiting. The Paris Metro is a convenient way to travel around the city, and rideshare services like Uber are readily available. Street parking is difficult to find in Paris; if you park in a garage, you will pay a premium.
- What may seem like a short drive based on the distance you see on Google Maps could actually be a 35- to 40-minute drive due to the heavy traffic Paris is known for in its trendy and touristy areas. On future trips that don’t include strollers, we’ll focus on staying a short walk from a Paris Metro station.
- If you really want to experience the splendor of Paris, walking is the best way. There are so many unique shops, cafes, and restaurants dispersed throughout the city, and walking through the neighborhoods allows you to window-browse efficiently.
Award Redemptions
To fly to Paris, we redeemed Alaska Airlines miles to fly on their One World partner, American Airlines, at 22.5k miles plus $5.60 per seated passenger. On the return trip, we redeemed 49k Virgin Atlantic miles (total) plus $230 in taxes per seated passenger to fly on their Sky Team partner, Air France. Virgin Atlantic has a tiered award chart, and the redemption is lower for kids between 2 and 11. Since our youngest was a lap child, no award redemption was required, and we only had to pay a small tax. This came out to 15k miles a ticket for my wife and me and 9.5k miles for our two kids, who had their own seats. It’s not a bad deal even when you factor in Virgin’s high tax passed on to their passengers.
Miles for places 